Wednesday, November 26, 2014

MAJA MA GUJARAT



TAMBEKARWADA

 Location: In the lane opposite the famous Dhuliram Pedawala, Raopura, Vadodara.


This historic monument looks like just another building or a big house from outside. Localites  don’t even glance at it. One had to drive around quite a bit before being able to find the site. The locals kept directing us uncertainly till we suddenly stumbled on to the familiar blue and red ASI board.
Located in the heart of the city, Tambekarwada is one of the oldest surviving residential complexes constructed in 1874 by Bhau Saheb Tambekar, who was the Diwan of Baroda during the time of Maharaja Ganpatrao Gaekwad from 1849 to 1854. This three-storeyed building has typical Maratha wooden architecture. Mural paintings have been used extensively to decorate the structure.

 


The front portion of this large building has paintings on its first three floors on walls, wooden doors and even pillars showing scenes from Ramayana and Life of Krishna, Gods and Goddesses of Hindu faith and the Anglo Maratha war.




The doors of the antechamber on second floor also have intimate love scenes, Kushti techniques and shringar visuals. Some of the murals actually looked like the Ganjifa card. 


 



The paintings seem to be a combination of the miniature and the pichwai style



The painting technique seems to be similar to what is known as 'secco'. The wall has been coated with lime and mud and the base then worked upon. Highlights have been picked out in gold in places but not much of it remains to be seen. Considering that the paintings are just 140 years old they seem to have lost a lot of their brightness and detail. ASI has restored some murals but the quality of restoration does not seem to be of very high quality to my untrained eye. Maybe the original itself did not really compare well with the standards set by the old masters in Kerala and Ajanta. Still it was one of the surprises of Vadodara for me. And a pleasant one at that.



 A niche before restoration and after

While the ASI has restored the front portion of Tambekarwada the portion adjoining it still needs attention. The ASI had recently written to the civic body seeking possession of the portion under the Vadodara Municipal Corporation so that it could be maintained better.
During monsoon there is seepage of water into the wall of the protected haveli and in the long run this could damage the protected monument. ASI has also sought permission to use the portion in possession of the VMC. The proposal entails that the spruced up premises could be put to use for a library, art gallery or any similar purpose to generate revenue to maintain the historical building.
Admission into the monument is free of charge. There was a lady caretaker who took us around very patiently. She was forthcoming with answers to all queries and allowed us access to all the floors cheerfully. What was missing however was some kind of written material giving more details about the background and history of the monument and details about the content of the paintings. There was one mural for example of a boys school/ hostel which showed several European boys playing the fool as their master looked on from the doorway. Just could not figure out how it fit into the scheme of things. I am sure that the ASI will sooner or later fill this gap?



2 comments:

  1. What a gem, will surely add this place on my wish list of sites to see in Vadodara. Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  2. What a gem, will surely add this place on my wish list of sites to see in Vadodara. Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete